Boy's marriage costume

Ahir people, Gujarat, India

Collected and donated by John Gillow in 1981; 1981.16.1In India, marriage involves the transfer of property from one family to another. In the past marriages were arranged between young children, hence the small size of this costume, which would have formed part of the dowry made and presented at the engagement. Nowadays the bride and bridegroom are past puberty when the issue of marriage arises and usually have some say in their choice of partner. At the wedding ceremony itself, the bridegroom wears an adult-sized embroidered outfit with a head cover.

Here the jacket (keriya) is made of orange cotton with long sleeves and full skirt, and is accompanied by a pair of trousers. Both were cut in a way designed to keep the wearer cool in hot weather. Embroidered on the jacket are parrots, peacocks, and monsoon flowers – motifs bringing the wearer luck and protection. The tiny mirrors sewn into the costume protect the wearer from the Evil Eye by deflecting its gaze.